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12-17-2016, 11:08 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-17-2016, 12:25 PM by Arne.)
Hi,
Is it correct that the lower end of the light outputs have been changed?
With gen1 setting moonlight was great. I had blue at 3 steps and my cool white at 3 steps too.
It looked very natural.
With gen2 this isn't possible anymore.
The leds start to light from 15 steps and upwards where 15 steps is a little critical, sometimes you can see the leds flicker.
At 15 steps the light is already too bright to serve as moonlight, unfortunately.
No, still the same lights and nothing changed... ;-)
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How did you set? I do not know how.
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12-17-2016, 12:54 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-17-2016, 12:55 PM by Arne.)
Sorry, I don't understand your question...
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Where to set the (moon)?
... At 15 steps the light is already too bright to serve as moonlight, unfortunately.
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Yeah, that's what I mean...
So you're having the same problem?
What I also noticed, is because of this, dimming all the way back to moon makes the leds flicker at a certain point...
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It should work the same as the original. If you run older version of software its hard for me to know if this was already fixed, I'll hook my lights up later and see whats happening, I'll let you know.
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No Rob, it definitely does not work as the Gen1 Robo-Tank.
The software may be the same, you know better than me ;-), but in practice the first was better.
With Gen2 you cannot set lights at i.e. 2 or 3 steps and dimming makes the lights flicker when reaching the lowest end of the sliders.
You start to have light at say 15 steps, and this is even critical.
More than 15 steps makes the light "stable" but is too bright to serve as moonlight.
This worked in Gen1.
Could it have to do with the electronics you added at the outputs?
Just my two cents... ;-)
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Did you put those jumpers on the main board for the LED channels? If not you're sending the wrong signal type to the drivers, check the manual explaining the boards and you'll see how to set the jumpers and what they do. You want 0-5v PWM signal.
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The jumpers are set okay Rob, I checked with the scope...
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Sounds good, when you mentioned the extra components I thought maybe you didn't know the jumpers had to be put on the board, but if you have one jumper set for each channel the hardware will be ok. I had to leave last night for work so didn't get a chance to test the lights, once my tank wakes up I'll check them out.
