Questions about purchasing a Robo-Tank DIY Aquarium Controller Kit

[Rob F]

Hi Jeremy, thanks for pointing that out, I'll make some changes to how things are labeled. As you read different things on the site you probably see a pattern of that, unfortunately I have a hard time explaining things. I did notice that "Assembly" header didn't match the others formatting, I haven't taken the time to find where the problem is. If the assembly options are clearer it will make more sense if the small "assembly" isn't noticed.

Answers. :)

1. Yeah the full assembly has the VGA patch cables soldered and include mounting the circuit boards, different patch cables and wiring up the AC 8 outlet power bar. That takes the bulk of the time as there's a lot of wires to cut, strip and crimp. Basically there is nothing left for you to do but label the case ports and wire up the 3 temp sensors. As you know one has wire which you simply screw in place on the connector and the other 2 add wire and do the same.
   
2. That link you posted is the mod I'm talking about. There will be some components missing and on the bottom of the board I solder some jumpers. It's done to last and no messy wires or anything like that. There would be one other mod for each of the flow meter ports, this would be a resistor soldered across the connector on the inside, you wouldn't see this once the boards are in the box and they don't get in the way.
   
3. You're correct on the extra parts required with that kit, I haven't been able to find affordable cable that looks good so its basically the same cost to take another sensor, cut it off and use the cable. So if you don't have or can't find cable that would be my only solution. A lot of people use cat5 wire but its not as nice because its stiff and thicker.
   
4. Definitely not. I immediately got some good 15amp switches. The ones I have don't light up though.
   
5. Unfortunately I don't have an answer for this, these light manufacturers make it very difficult. None of them specify which signal type and voltage they use to dim and they don't include any external connections to use an external controller. For sure you would have to open the lights and connect wires to the ballasts so the controller can do its thing. Obviously that scares a lot of people, its a little difficult to start hacking expensive lights. The only nice one that I know of to work with is from Kessil, it has an external connector and states the signal type used. http://kessil.com/aquarium/Freshwater_A360.php
   

Hope that helps, if you have more let me know.