Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country: 
(04-30-2019, 05:45 PM)Rob F Wrote: I've checked with mine and I can get 25.9, 26.0, 26.1 and back so it's likely sensor or noise in aquarium. You could add a ground or remove the sensor from the water to see if that improves it to verify. didn't try anything yet to figure it out since I'm fine with how the controller works.
with a refresh of the screen values every second you bound to have minor fluctuations in my opinion.
none the less, when I finally going to fit the SSR all the wiring will be re-done and there will be no more 230Vac wires near the controller or sensor wires.
so that should rule out EMC.
as far as lose contacts go, ever since I updated there has changed nothing physically with my set-up I got hold of a USB extension so the controller stays firmly build in my cabinet.
btw got my first I2C crap-out at around 10:05 (local) during the first fade
Posts: 3,249
Threads: 90
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Reputation:
184
Joined: Sep 2015
Country: 
One of those three should help, the temps are quite stable, once and a while I'll see mine jump 2 points but it's rare. I didn't think you had anything connected to SCL/SDA pins, you shouldn't have the I2C lockup unless you do.
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
The RTC is on the SCL/SDA pins ;)
Posts: 3,249
Threads: 90
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Reputation:
184
Joined: Sep 2015
Country:
I was referring to anything extras, the I2C shouldn't lock with just the RTC. If the RTC has jumpers can you shortened them.
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
It has 2 headers, don’t recall jumpers.
What do I need to short?
Posts: 3,249
Threads: 90
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Reputation:
184
Joined: Sep 2015
Country:
Oops, jumpers was supposed to be wires, don't short anything. I think the board you have the RTC has jumpers attached which plugs into the board or is the RTC plugged in directly to the board or built in? If it has wires try shortening them.
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
No it’s gen2 so the RTC is hooked up with cheap breadboard wires.
Think I’ll solder on some copper wires directly to the RTC
Posts: 3,249
Threads: 90
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Reputation:
184
Joined: Sep 2015
Country:
That would be good, make them as short as possible too.
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
05-08-2019, 11:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-08-2019, 11:51 PM by fietsenrex.)
Ended up fitting the RTC directly on the pins of the robo-tank using the header on the RTC so no soldering there.
I did solder the 5v and GND though.
If this doesn’t solve it I might order a headerless RTC so I can solder it in place.
It is a RTC 3231 right?
Posts: 3,249
Threads: 90
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Reputation:
184
Joined: Sep 2015
Country:
Nice that's as close as you can get. The GND and 5v doesn't matter, that should do it. The RTC is a DS3231.
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
Well soldering eliminates the headers which can corrode over time and cause noise
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
05-10-2019, 09:05 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-10-2019, 09:10 AM by fietsenrex.)
Something has gone haywire...
Came home yesterday, lights were off figured it had to do something with the RTC since it already had failed 2 times before so didn’t bother with it i had to reset the controller using the reset button on the controller arduino.
Fitted the RTC as mentioned above and left it for what it was.
Came home today and only the white was on at full blast when it should only be at 12** other channels were off, wierd things happend when swapping light modes.
On one of the modes violet was fully on and on another everything went off while it shouldn’t be off.
Got the controller to reset properly by saving the time and date settings and now the PWM responds properly.
In regards to the lights, the PWM command wire from the controller to the LDD’s runs separate from any AC lines
As for the DC lines they run more or less separate from the PWM wire
Btw if I do recall correctly the PWM is handled by a PCA chip which is also on the I2C?
Since the arduino I’m using is a Chinese knock-off could it be that the arduino is the cause of it? If so how do I make sure it is?
Posts: 63
Threads: 5
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Reputation:
0
Joined: Jan 2016
Country: 
05-10-2019, 11:45 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-10-2019, 11:46 AM by Irass.)
I also have a problem with the RTC clock, it will switch itself to 2009 and at 23:46.
Then only reset.
gen2
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
(05-10-2019, 11:45 AM)Irass Wrote: I also have a problem with the RTC clock, it will switch itself to 2009 and at 23:46.
Then only reset.
gen2 Exactly that, had the same thing twice now
Posts: 3,249
Threads: 90
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Likes Received: 163 in 120 posts
Reputation:
184
Joined: Sep 2015
Country:
Irass and fietsenrex, I will send you some sketches in a few hours if my computer cooperates, having lots of issues with USB ports so uploading isn't going so well at the moment.
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
Posts: 164
Threads: 6
Likes Received: 9 in 9 posts
Likes Received: 9 in 9 posts
Reputation:
9
Joined: Nov 2015
Country: 
Same issue before unplugged ph sensor. A little bit More stable now .
But the issue I have regularly is the t° sensors are frozen. There are all new ones. I need to restart controller or/and to unplug/plug those sensors.
Posts: 56
Threads: 7
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Reputation:
0
Joined: Oct 2015
Country: 
I have had the same problem. since I disconect the I2C (Ph and ORB probe vrom Atlas) it works without mistake.
I think it is a problem with the I2C bus...
Posts: 63
Threads: 5
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Reputation:
0
Joined: Jan 2016
Country:
I have restored the 4.10 version no problems, clock date, schedules, light modes, etc. work
Posts: 355
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Likes Received: 12 in 12 posts
Reputation:
13
Joined: Dec 2015
Country:
(05-11-2019, 01:53 PM)Irass Wrote: I have restored the 4.10 version no problems, clock date, schedules, light modes, etc. work Are you running a PH probe? If so is it working properly in V4.1?
|
