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ATO not working right
#1
Hi. having issues with ATO not working right. After hooking up float switches and testing the ATO I found the main sensor wasn't working and the back up sensor would turn it on and off. I checked and double checked my wiring it was right so I switched the sensors around so the back up is the main. The ATO would work when testing but after 10-20 minutes the ATO icon keeps going red even after resetting it many times. I tried running ATO in test mode but the icon still goes red.
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#2
Hi brfreeman7, the main and backup float work together. When you get the pump running the backup float is in the typically position it would be, if you move it with the main float staying open the ATO would shut off however the icon near the clock would remain green if the ATO was running but the pump would stop. The backup float doesn't use any code so technically the controller doesn't even know it exists.

So even though you turn the pump off with backup float the ATO system didn't get turned off and will run until the emergency timer runs out, that's why you get that red ATO icon, it means the ATO malfunctioned and the ATO won't run until it's reset, you can press red ATO icon and it'll ask you if you want to reset ATO.

I can tell everything is ok otherwise the pump wouldn't run, sounds like the sensors are just mixed up. The best way to test is set the "check water level" to 0 or "test mode". This removes any delays from reading the sensors. Now if you move the main ATO float on/off you'll see the ATO icon turn green/grey. If the backup float isn't set correct the icon will still change but the pump won't turn on unless the backup float is in the correct position.
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#3
OK so maybe I don't have it wired right. I have the +5v on the ATO plug5. ran to both main and back up floats. then the other side of main float is ran to port 6 and back up float to port 7.  The floats are orientated so that the switch is closed when they are in the down position. Is that correct.
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#4
Sounds like you have the wiring correct just the float orientations are likely wrong. Most float switches are reversible, the small ring that stops the float can come off so you can flip the actual float around to change the orientation. Because of that there isn't a correct way, it depends how your floats are set.

To get it correct do the following.

First setup the main float, make sure to have the "check ATO level" set to "test mode" so it's instant readings, then move the main float switch back and forth, as you do this the ATO icon should turn green/gray showing it's turning on/off. Then make sure the float is sitting how you want it in the tank, if not take that ring off and flip it around, typically when this float hits the bottom the pump turns on.

Now with the main float set so the ATO icon is green (this will turn red if "max ATO runtime" expires before the ATO is turned off by main float, at that point it's dead until reset). So with the ATO icon green and the pump plugged in you should move the backup float back and forth which should turn the pump on/off. Again set this float so the orientation matches your setup, typically this should stop the pump when the float is push up by water. This float cuts only the pump but the controller still technically thinks the ATO is still running and will stay that way until the "max ATO runtime" expires.

Because the backup float is above the normal fill line by a little bit it'll always let the pump run and the main float will move up and down during regular use and turn the pump on/off.

Here's an image that might help with the visuals.

https://www.robo-tank.ca/forum/Thread-at...71#pid3071
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#5
When testing ATO with check water level set to 0 I get the same result no mater witch way the floats are turned. The back up will turn the pump on/off regardless of the main float being up or down. And the main float doesn't do anything. The ATO icon stays green as the pump is turned on/off with the back up float.  The other thing I found when ATO water level is on setting 1 to 4 ATO icon is green and the pump will turn on. when ATO water level is set to 5 the icon rapidly flashes green/gray. On settings 6 to 10 the icon is grey and the pump won't turn on.
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#6
Hmmm, this seems strange, it sounds like the hardware is ok as you do get the pump turning on/off so it must be something with the settings. Did you verify with a volt meter that the floats are letting through the full 5v and none flowing when the float is the other direction. It almost sounds like voltage is flowing though the main float no matter how it sits.

The ATO can't run (green icon) if the main float isn't letting voltage through however if voltage still flowed though when main float moves this would make sense.

You can test without the floats too. For the backup float replace with a jumper wire, +5v to backup float pin. Then use a wire to jump the +5v pin and main float pin. Like this if you touch main pin to +5v the icon should go green and back to red when wire removed.
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#7
Yeah this is a strange problem. So I tested voltage and I get 4.97 on the main and it does turn on and off. And I got 5.02 on the back up. I also tried jumping it like you said and it didn't make any difference. I was thinking about opening the controller just to see if any thing look bad.
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#8
I just realized I said with the jumper the icon should go green to red but it should be green to grey.

Just to make sure I'm on the right page.

1. If no floats are attached to controller the pump won't run?
2. If only backup float is connected to controller the pump won't run?
3. If only main float is connected to controller the pump won't run?
4. If both floats are attached to controller the pump always runs based on position of backup float and main float makes no difference?

If all those are yes the hardware seems to be doing what it should but worth a peak if not much trouble. Basically the backup port must see 5v and the main port must also see 5v for the pump to run. If one of the other doesn't have 5v the pump can't run.

If the main float is required to make that pump run than 5v is turning on the transistor and when you unplug it no 5v can get to that transistor. The question is if you get 0v when you move that float why it's the pump stopping until you physically unplug the float.

EDIT: One other thing to try is going to settings, system and press "sync" button. Maybe a setting in the controller isn't matching the display, this moves all settings from display to controller. This takes a couple minutes to run.
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#9
Yeah this is a strange problem. So I tested voltage and I get 4.97 on the main and it does turn on and off. And I got 5.02 on the back up. I also tried jumping it like you said and it didn't make any difference. I was thinking about opening the controller just to see if any thing look bad.

Were on the same page except the pump will turn on even with the main float disconnected. I tried sync system that didn't work. I will open it up and look at it tomorrow.
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#10
Ah ok, it sounds like +5v is getting to the transistor all the time, that would explain it so it does sound hardware related. I see you got the controller back in March so I'm not sure if you have the latest board as it was around that time I got them. If you do it'll have resistor arrays mounted which might be where the problem lays. Does the controller have a small red w5100 plugged in or the larger w5100 with an SD cage on it? The small one sticks out the back but the larger one has a patch cable going into it so you can connect externally. If you have that one can you tell me the "Rev" letter on the controller board under the Robo-Tank logo. Either way just above plugs for ATO you'll see small transistors, check if something could be shorting them out.
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#11
Were on the same page except the pump will turn on even with the main float disconnected. I tried sync system that didn't work. I will open it up and look at it tomorrow.
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#12
Hi. So I took apart the controller and I didn't see anything wrong, the transistors looked good. I think I have the small red w5100 and it says rev A under the logo.
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#13
Ok I think I know what's going on and I'm sorry it's my fault. I'm pretty sure I missed adding some resistors to your board. I know the first couple boards of this type I didn't add them because my stencil didn't have the holes so I needed to do them after and forgot.

Here's an image, you'll see this section on the controller board to the right of the ATO plug. I'm guessing all of the resistor pads are empty? I put the option for a pulldown and pullup resistor for each of the analog port so they're more flexible for different sensors available. Typically I use pulldown so when nothing is plugged in the Arduino reads 0v. Without a resistor and nothing plugged in those ports are "floating" meaning they will always have a small amount of voltage going to the arduino which is why that "water level" setting was acting odd.

Hopefully you have a resistor you can add, 10k is a good value. You can still solder to the pad if it isn't surface mount or you can solder it directly to the green connectors on the PCB as you can see the legs from the back of the connectors. If you did that you would put one side of resistor to GND on analog plug, next to ATO, (ATO GND pin won't work as it's switched on/off for the pump). The other side of resistor would go to the main ATO port pin.

That should get it working as the pin will be pulled low when the float is open or disconnected. If this isn't clear let me know and I'll make up a diagram.

If those resistors are in fact missing the 5 analog ports will also have this problem. A pulldown resistor should be added to those as well, so in the end you need 6 resistors, one on each of the pulldown pads.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#14
Yeah I'm missing the resistors. I will have to get some but a diagram would be helpful. I know a bit about electronics but never messed with circuit boards Lol. Should I use 10k resistors on the analog ports to? It will be a couple of weeks before I can fix it but Thanks for help so far.
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#15
Oh I'm so sorry, that'll definitely be the problem. 10K for the analog ports is good. I will make a diagram but what resistors were you going to use, surface mount or with leads? You can also do it without soldering but the resistors are external in the green plug so not as clean looking. In my opinion surface mount resistors are easier to work with and solder. If you touch a little solder on each pad, then with tweezers hold the resistor on the pad and you just need to touch each side with the soldering iron and they will stick. I see you're in a decent size city so you should be able to get them locally or I can get you a link on amazon or something.


I'm going to put some surface mount resistors in an envelope with a regular stamp, hopefully you can use them and they make it in a week.
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#16
I think I will use the surface mount. That would be great if you could send me some. I'm going out of town so it will be a couple of weeks before I can solder them in anyway.
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#17
Sounds good, they should be there when you get back.
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