Belaya Tank Progress

[Belaya]

I've taken a few different approaches  for packaging and using the controller, and thought it was about time to share.



   
This is how I've set up my devices. I made mahogany and aluminium boxes, and moved everything to a single, self-contained case.

   
This is the front of the controller before stenciling. It has LEDs to show which outlets are running, ports for all required sensors, a power switch with integrated breaker and light, and output to the display. I converted it to VGA as it offers a more secure connection than ethernet.

   
The rear shows the outlets, ethernet and programming ports, SD slot, in addition to LED and doser connectors. Inside this case is a 250W power supply to run lights and pumps directly, in addition to MOVs and surge protection for the outlets. The vent holes are for a pair of cooling fans.


   
This is the current state of the aquarium. I welded a steel frame to support a 200 gallon tank, and built the cabinet and sump. Once I reinforce the floor, I can bring the tank itself up and start planting.

   
Most recently, I added magnetic stirrers. I did not want to sacrifice light channels, or run additional plugs to run them.

   
Instead, a master stirrer plugs into the doser port on the controller, and the doser then plugs into the stirrer. An onboard microcontroller records the pulse length when a doser is activated, and saves the value. It will then stir for a number of seconds, wait for the fluid to settle, then run the doser for the saved time and delete the value. RGB LEDs on the front display whether each channel is stirring, waiting, or dosing, and a rocker switch on the side enables or disables the stirring function. The power LED is bicolour, and will indicate whether or not the stirrers are enabled. The knob is a speed control.

   
As you can see, the slaves are far simpler, containing only a fan and speed control.

   
From the back, you can see the ports for three additional stirrers, and the connector for the dosing pumps.

I have many more pictures, notes, and features if there's any interest.

[Rob F]

Hi Belaya, oh wow that looks great, I won't ask how long it took. :) Definitely interested in more info and pics, I enjoy seeing what others do. I would like to see inside the main box. Looks good under the cabinet, you did a good job managing all the cables.

[Belaya]

Thanks Rob, it's been fun tinkering and adapting your creation.

   
Here's the basic blocking. All the boards and inlet fan are mounted with nylon standoffs to aluminium rails welded to the rear plate. The big grey thing is the safe area around a Murata PQC250-12 PSU. Not shown in the model is an additional exhaust fan, and obviously many connections :)

   
Plenty of wires here though, it really looks a mess with the lacing removed haha. Once I'm certain that this layout will be suitable, and I won't need more sensors, I plan on etching a few boards to rid myself of most of those wires.

   
The cases were really quick to make after I figured out how I wanted to package your boards. This is the blank for the doser box, cut to thickness and width, with rabbets on either end to hold the aluminium panel.

   
The blank is then mitred to length, and the joints covered in packing tape to prevent the glue from marking the outside, and help hold it together as it dries.

   
If the pieces fit well enough together, the stretched tape provides enough clamping force.

   
Then, the aluminium is cut, drilled, tapped, and countersunk to accept the components.

[rott]

wow you did some really nice work on the box.. you have some kinda wood working shop at home or some thing I really like the wood covering looks great under the tank

[Rob F]

For all those wires you did a good job keeping them neat. Looks like you removed some plugs for the LED's and soldering in some mosfets, nice!

[Belaya]

Thanks Rott. I have a small shop. As you can see from the previous photos, the boxes are pretty easy to make. Here's what they look like lined up and running:
   

I have to remake the Atlas case after my cat knocked it off the table and split it, I'll get around to it eventually.
   
I made a carrier board that holds the Atlas stamps, with light pipes that bring the LEDs to the front panel.

   
Remade the display case too after I mistakenly drilled too deep and the fasteners poked through. I moved the light sensor to the side of the case as well.



And to Rob, it sure will look cleaner with PCBs and flat flex. I'd like to make sure I won't have to add more to it before taking that step. Desoldering the plugs saved on height, and was one less failure point.

[Rob F]

Those are the pics that make all the trouble worth it. Nice idea with the lights on Atlas carrier board, one day I have to make one of those.