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proposal for the future
#1
Zmeňte sieť Wi-Fi prostredníctvom webovej stránky

Pridanie tlakového senzora na CO2

Vytvára sa búrka na osvetlenie

Vytvoriť chladič pre útes pi aby mohol lepsie chladiť malina, ktorá vytvára aj 140 ° F :
https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Cooler-Coo...B07KLPF3MK

zväčšiť priestor na pripojenie maliny, aby bolo možné namontovať vnútorný chladič
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Model-A...B07VQLBSNC
pridajte konektor na doske plošných spojov na pripojenie fan + 12V

konektor na pripojenie displeja cez RX / TX

prietokomer

Adaptér na kartu SD / fotoaparát, aby ste predišli nutnosti demontáže krytu
https://www.wantitall.co.za/computers/sd...b0749s1s15

redukcia pre kameru na bočný kryt
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#2
Thanks for your suggestions, they are all great and some I think about but not so easy. The software additions are out of my hands but you can do a lot using the file driver. If you can get your Pi generating a flow value or co2 as an example you can save the value to a text file and import to reef-pi using the file driver. These come in under the pH tab so you have those features to work with. If you create a text file on your Pi, add 12.1 to it you can test out the file driver. The connector for the driver is analog type, you'll see one pin appear.

I would like to add cooling but I don't want the case any larger or frankly have to worry about fans, good fans aren't cheap. The easiest is bolting a fan to the side of the case, a 20-30mm fits good and can be connected to a DC port for control or a PWM if PWM capable. You could solder the wires inside the case if you don't want to see them. You could do the same with a temp sensor, place one inside the case and then you can run the fan based on temp.

Those heatsinks are nice but won't fit because the header pins are too short. You'll notice on the controller board the USB/RJ45 ports are after the board ends otherwise it wouldn't plug in. There's isn't much room under the Pi unfortunately. The fan mounted on the side of case will blow across the Pi and come out the other side.

I've played with those SD adapters in the past and not going back there, they aren't very good and can be hard to mount. That's best for DIY.

What display are you looking at? Tx/Rx is GPIO 14/15 which are used for power bar 1 outlet 5/4. I assume if you remove connectors for them you could use as serial connection as there are no resistors or any circuit on the controller for these pins. All the GPIO's to DB9's are connected directly to Pi so they can be multi purpose.

What are you referring to? "reduction for the camera to the side cover"
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#3
(01-30-2021, 05:06 PM)Rob F Wrote: Thanks for your suggestions, they are all great and some I think about but not so easy. The software additions are out of my hands but you can do a lot using the file driver. If you can get your Pi generating a flow value or co2 as an example you can save the value to a text file and import to reef-pi using the file driver. These come in under the pH tab so you have those features to work with. If you create a text file on your Pi, add 12.1 to it you can test out the file driver. The connector for the driver is analog type, you'll see one pin appear.

I would like to add cooling but I don't want the case any larger or frankly have to worry about fans, good fans aren't cheap. The easiest is bolting a fan to the side of the case, a 20-30mm fits good and can be connected to a DC port for control or a PWM if PWM capable. You could solder the wires inside the case if you don't want to see them. You could do the same with a temp sensor, place one inside the case and then you can run the fan based on temp.

Those heatsinks are nice but won't fit because the header pins are too short. You'll notice on the controller board the USB/RJ45 ports are after the board ends otherwise it wouldn't plug in. There's isn't much room under the Pi unfortunately. The fan mounted on the side of case will blow across the Pi and come out the other side.

I've played with those SD adapters in the past and not going back there, they aren't very good and can be hard to mount. That's best for DIY.

What display are you looking at? Tx/Rx is GPIO 14/15 which are used for power bar 1 outlet 5/4. I assume if you remove connectors for them you could use as serial connection as there are no resistors or any circuit on the controller for these pins. All the GPIO's to DB9's are connected directly to Pi so they can be multi purpose.

What are you referring to? "reduction for the camera to the side cover"

Hmm, these are interesting ideas. Some are better left alone (e.g. use raspi-config to set the WiFi network, it doesn't really belong in reef-pi), but creating a lightning storm could be requested to @Ranjib. I actually have that feature embedded in my Current USA Loop lights and it's really cool, but cannot control it through reef-pi (yet). I would even enhance it to connect to a weather station and mimic the outside environment. My software changes are limited by the hardware I own so it's difficult to work on stuff that other folks may find useful. However, I have started researching Bluetooth hacking for the lights and the Mobius controllers of my Vortechs, and also WiFi hacking of my TECO chiller but am unsure if I'll be able to legally publish that work. We'll see...

As for cooling, I'm reminded of my first PlayStation 3 (the fat one). I purchased an external fan assembly that attached to the back of the unit and it worked fine. Perhaps Rob can come up with another optional upgrade; remember that I live in the Tropics so I'd be interested... ;-)

Not sure about the purpose for another SD card...

For the display I purchased a 10 inch touchscreen from Amazon that connects via HDMI & USB to the standard RPi connectors and works great because I occasionally experience WiFi disconnects and having a hardwired console with Gnome desktop saves the day.

Finally, I reckon the "reduction" for the camera is just a slot through which one can pass the RPi camera cable. Perhaps it can be added as a "cut-out" to the case somewhere, but Rob would determine if it's feasible.

Just my opinion, I hope it's useful.

Thanks,
José

Please post questions in the forum (not via PM) so that everyone can benefit from and contribute to finding solutions. Thank you.
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#4
Yeah without hardware it can be difficult doing things, even something simple like a slot for ribbon cable. I really like that display you got, how does the touch work with reef-pi, is it fully functional?

Lightning storm is cool, when I started playing with controllers it was one of the first things I did haha, here's a video of it in action. The storms were random or manual, when they started the lights would slowly dim based on time of day and the lightning would start. I wanted and still want to add a rain fall system to go with storm. Idea was a PVC cage above the tank with pin holes and a small pump stuffed in the end, it would just cycle the water in tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ns5XBKjyC-0

One day I'll look more into cooling, maybe I can make an attachment that uses the lid screws and holds a fan against the vents. Like that it's only a 3D print and people can source fans or possibly get from me.
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#5
(02-02-2021, 09:23 PM)Rob F Wrote: Yeah without hardware it can be difficult doing things, even something simple like a slot for ribbon cable. I really like that display you got, how does the touch work with reef-pi, is it fully functional?

Lightning storm is cool, when I started playing with controllers it was one of the first things I did haha, here's a video of it in action. The storms were random or manual, when they started the lights would slowly dim based on time of day and the lightning would start. I wanted and still want to add a rain fall system to go with storm. Idea was a PVC cage above the tank with pin holes and a small pump stuffed in the end, it would just cycle the water in tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ns5XBKjyC-0

One day I'll look more into cooling, maybe I can make an attachment that uses the lid screws and holds a fan against the vents. Like that it's only a 3D print and people can source fans or possibly get from me.

The display works very well with reef-pi; I just load the Chromium web browser pointing to localhost and so far it responds to every UI control. I use a stylus because of my stubby fingers, and also installed an on-screen keyboard.

Going back to the fan, I'd be interested in a full product. It's 84 Fahrenheit here today (3-Feb) so it's almost a requirement year round.

Thanks,
José

Please post questions in the forum (not via PM) so that everyone can benefit from and contribute to finding solutions. Thank you.
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#6
Good deal, lots of people ask about a display but I've always thought there was touch issues. Someone the other day posted pics of a 10" screen but it had limited touch.

No cooling necessary around here, I use my Pi as a hand warmer. Currently -20c or worse, car almost didn't start today.
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#7
I would welcome if DC ports could be added to the dosing pump tab and not just pwm. My pwm ports are fully occupied and it would be nice to keep the dosing pump card with the DC port option
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#8
(02-28-2021, 04:02 PM)loksik.lubos Wrote: I would welcome if DC ports could be added to the dosing pump tab and not just pwm. My pwm ports are fully occupied and it would be nice to keep the dosing pump card with the DC port option
Hi:

Thank you for the suggestion. This is complicated so it may take me some time to get it right.

I already looked into using the digital (RPi-PowerBar) ports for dosing pumps because my own pumps are simple, AC pumps. Unfortunately the original reef-pi software -- as designed -- has a very tight coupling between dosing pumps and jacks. This means that it was written as if nothing else but jacks could be used for dosing pumps and that makes it complicated to change the code. 

Please look into making a DC port behave as a jack. If so, you could probably use it for a dosing pump. In the meantime I'll be revisiting this issue occasionally because I believe that the software should be able to handle reality, and my reality is that my dosing pumps are AC.

Thanks,
José

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#9
Ahoj rob. asi by si mal uvazovat nad chladenim lebo moje maliny vyzaruje moc vysoka teplota a zacina sa mi poskodzovat kryt od tepla.


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#10
(03-06-2021, 03:23 PM)loksik.lubos Wrote: Hi rob. you should probably think about cooling because my raspberries are emitted by too high a temperature and the cover from the heat starts to damage.

I agree Rob. Here in the tropics the winter cool weather already passed and we're seeing mid 80's F as spring is just starting. Summer will be hotter and more humid. Unfortunately, around here very few people can afford whole house air conditioning and I'm not in that group. And the RPi's are beginning to act up due to heat. Please think about it.

Thanks,
José

Please post questions in the forum (not via PM) so that everyone can benefit from and contribute to finding solutions. Thank you.
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#11
Last week I actually did some testing, I soldered a DS18B20 to port on board which is directly under the Pi 3. My ambient temp was 75f and inside case got to around 108f after 20 minutes or so.

I happened to have a Noctua 40mm x 40mm x 10mm, for the heck of it I simply placed inside the case and surprisingly it brought temp down to around 98f.

I plan to redesign the lid so it has a vent for fan input and then 5-10mm legs could be printed so the controller isn't sitting on the vent. The air will be pushing into the board and move from there. Maybe on the lid I can have a track which might guide the air under the Pi, the header is blocking most of the air getting there.

   

   

   
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#12
Great!

Keep it up and count on me to purchase revised cases.

Cheers,
José

Please post questions in the forum (not via PM) so that everyone can benefit from and contribute to finding solutions. Thank you.
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#13
(03-06-2021, 07:05 PM)JFReyes Wrote: Great!

Keep it up and count on me to purchase revised cases.

Cheers,

Sounds good. I'm glad you guys brought this up again, I've been busy lately so put it to the side but this is something I must get done. Later this week I should have some more info.
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#14
ROBO by mohol zvýšiť kryt, aby bolo možné také chladenie pomocou ventilátora alebo iného chladiča spojiť s raspberou pomocou 40-pólovej redukcie. Prípadne upravený 40-pinový kábel a malinu otočte opačným smerom, iba tu by bolo potrebné úplne upraviť celý kryt.

I use 8GB of raspberry pi 4 and it reaches a temperature of about 150 ° F


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#15
(03-07-2021, 03:27 AM)loksik.lubos Wrote: ROBO by mohol zvýšiť kryt, aby bolo možné také chladenie pomocou ventilátora alebo iného chladiča spojiť s raspberou pomocou 40-pólovej redukcie. Prípadne upravený 40-pinový kábel a malinu otočte opačným smerom, iba tu by bolo potrebné úplne upraviť celý kryt.

I use 8GB of raspberry pi 4 and it reaches a temperature of about 150 ° F

150 is getting up there, I should clarify my 109 was case temp, just checked Pi and it's 130 with no fan running.

Have you done any OS updates lately? The Pi 4 is known to run hotter but apparently some heat issues have been solved with updates so it's possible more improvements have been made.

Having a fan/heatsink directly on Pi is obviously best, what I have cooking should do good for case but not sure how much affect it'll have on Pi. 

Raising the case is easy but I don't think that ribbon cable would work, I wonder if they make a 40 pin header extension somewhere between 5-15mm. I'm going to do some searching.
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#16
Also in my opinion, it would be enough to lift the cover higher and connect a 40-pin connector. We will see how it will help to possibly use a fan with ntb under the rasp and dissipate heat outside. I have the latest update and the temperature can rise even more, especially when USB is connected. I also considered the fact that I will put the raspberry out and put it in a quality boxx cooler and connect it with that cable


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Owootecc-Raspbe...4121249364
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#17
For sure, it could be raised enough for a ribbon cable but it would be quite thick, overall I'm trying to keep the case as small as possible. If you have a 3D printer I can raise things and post a file. 

I know some people have done the external pi idea and run ribbon into case. They cut the port tabs on side and slide it in. I've been told this one works well, it's molded for Pi 4 and makes contact with all the chips, looks nice. You would need to run the fan cables into the controller for power though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Armor-Case-Shell-Box-with-Dual-Fan-Heatsink-For-Raspberry-Pi-4-Model-B-4B/143955026379?var=443221234881&hash=item21846361cb:g:EGIAAOSwu7RgMO5w
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#18
I just started a thread on heating issues here so others can find it easier.

https://www.robo-tank.ca/forum/Thread-Ke...-Tank-Cool
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