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Sera LED Digital Dimmer 31070 - 10-20VDC
#1
Hi,

I've one of these above my tank:
https://www.sera.de/us/product/freshwate...al-dimmer/

This i what is on the back of the controller:
Sera LED Digital Dimmer 31070
Voltage: 10-20VDC
Max. Wattage: 
  • 60Watts @20VDC
  • 30Watts @10VDC

Are there convertors available that could convert the robo-tank 10V Analog to 20V?

Regards,
Jimmy
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#2
Hi Jimmy, can you plug in a DC adapter and power up the light without the controller?

Does the light have 2 wires with a connector something like this?

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMFgxMDAw/...880000500F
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#3
Hi Rob, Yes I can power up the light without controller.
The controller has connectors before and after for easy bypass.
Indeed the connectors as in your link..
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#4
Ok you should be able to connect light to a DC port and use it to control brightness. Connect + wire to +12v pin and ground to ground.

This will run the light at 12v max but you can use a 20v power supply if you like the control, try it and let me know.
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#5
Wink 
Hi Rob,

I believe I was wrong here, the SERA light doesn't have a control cable 0-10V.

The SERA Light has a POWER Supply 220V --> 14V 2000mA
The power supply has a direct connection to the controller, and from there a direct connection to the LED Light.

When i'm bypasssing the controller, the Power supply is directly connected to the LED Light.

So using a direct output from robo-tank will never power the LED.
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#6
Hi Jimmy, I think you can run that light directly off a DC port. Connect ground to ground and +12v to positive and you should be in business. It would connect like the light in my video you mentioned.

As the light could draw 2 amps it's probably best to only power one from the controller, if you have multiple you can use an external power supply to carry the load.
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#7
Hi Rob, You're right the LED Works perfect from a DC Port!

Now i've noticed there is also a switch in the cable right before the LED, 1-OFF-2, stand 1 is normal operation, stand 2 is only blue light. I Supose i could split the cable into 2 DC Ports, but as I'm already running low on DC Ports, this isn't an option.

I've also tested the light from an analog Port, but 10V isn't enough to give the LED his full potential.

Will there be more DC Ports available in the future?

Thanks again,
Jimmy
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#8
Hi Jimmy, good to hear and it does sound like you could use 2 DC ports and dim each channel independently.

Don't use the LED ports to power equipment directly, it could damage the outputs as they can only handle a very low amount of current, about 20ma. They can only be connected directly to drivers or devices that have PWM control built in. With that said you could add a mosfet to an LED pin and it would become a DC port. Here's a diagram.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I0g7AYUF-Pg/U...ic_pwm.png

In the next few weeks I plan to have some simple modules that you could plug into LED or power bar outlets if you don't fancy DIY.
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#9
(10-28-2020, 01:33 PM)Rob F Wrote: In the next few weeks I plan to have some simple modules that you could plug into LED or power bar outlets if you don't fancy DIY.
Looking forward to use (my currently unused) power bar outlets ! K05164 

Thanks again for your kind assistance.
Much appreciated!
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#10
No problem, check the website in a few weeks and they should be up and I'll probably send a mess email if I have a few ready.
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#11
(10-27-2020, 11:02 AM)Rob F Wrote: As the light could draw 2 amps it's probably best to only power one from the controller, if you have multiple you can use an external power supply to carry the load.

Hi Rob,

My LEDs works perfect, with 2 outputs, one for blue and one for whote light.

But the light intensity has dropped, probability because the output from the driver is 12V/5A.

You have mentioned here that i could use an external power supply.
Can I re-use this 12V/5A, If so, How?

Kind regards,
Jimmy
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#12
(03-08-2021, 12:30 PM)zee_zout Wrote: Hi Rob,

My LEDs works perfect, with 2 outputs, one for blue and one for whote light.

But the light intensity has dropped, probability because the output from the driver is 12V/5A.

You have mentioned here that i could use an external power supply.
Can I re-use this 12V/5A, If so, How?

Kind regards,
Jimmy

Hey Jimmy, glad to hear it's working. I'm a little confused, originally I thought the power supply was 20v but if it's only 12v that's what you should be getting out the controller so changing to an external 12v power supply would be the same results.

With the light at 100% do you still get 12v on the DC port or has it dropped to 10v or something? If so the power supply on controller doesn't have enough current and should be running warm/hot. If the polarity for your 12v/5a power supply matches controller, center positive, you can use it on the controller.

Do you have a link for the light to see the specs?
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#13
Hi Rob,

Indeed, i see what is confusing here.


1. I have a LED Light, that matches this one (found this in google using my reference - LED, 90cm, ZhongShan YF-LED1200A, 5-75W, IP67): 
https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/95b13...69575.html

2. Before this LED Light there is a Digital dimmer: https://www.sera.de/nl/product/zoetwater...al-dimmer/

3. The power supply to this dimmer (and LED Light, as this is all connected inline): 12VDC/5A

When I was writing about the back off the controller, in my first post, this was the Digital dimmer, i see now that this was confusing  K0587


I do see a increase/decrease in light intensity between:
  • LED connected to reef-pi (manual set to 100%) (without digital dimmer)
  • and
  • LED connected directly to original power supply. (with digital dimmer)  This illuminates the aquarium much beter.

I also noticed that the light drops when the ATO pump kicks in.

I've bought a cheap power supply to powerup robotank-reefpi: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/329072126...4c4dbG5yiX
Could that be the reason?
  • If yes, would it be an option to use the LED Power supply as power supply for robotank?
  • If no, that i presume that best option is using the LED power supply as an external power, however i'm not comfortable with wiring, what do you mean with 'center positive'?

Kind regards,
Jimmy
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#14
Thanks, that clears things up. The light is definitely 12v so don't want a 20v power supply although that will make it brighter haha.

It is sounding like a weak power supply on controller, the fact the light dims when the ATO pump comes on shows it's lacking power. Like that the power supply probably won't last long. I think if you put a volt meter on DC port you'll find it's not hitting 12v and drops when pump runs.

I feel most of these cheap power supply are only good for half their ratings and you'll be pushing that.

(03-09-2021, 02:16 AM)zee_zout Wrote: what do you mean with 'center positive'?

Going off the image from the light link it looks like it has the same 2.1mm barrel connector and the polarity is correct. It has a small image showing center is + and housing is -. If your power supply is marked like that you can simply plug it into the controller and use it. The controller and Pi alone only draw about 0.3 amps so it should be the same brightness.

If not verify you are getting 12v out of the DC port at 100%.

If that doesn't help I'll show how to use external power supply.
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#15
All went exact as you described!
All sorted now, bright light and no more power drops with ATO.

As always, much appreciated!!
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#16
Right on, nice when things work.
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