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Robo-Tank v5.13 is Ready
#1
Hi, I have an update available, this one requires you to copy some images to the display SD card and upload sketch to display and controller, nothing else needs to be done and no current settings are affected.

This update covers the following.

  • The first incoming sensor data was converted to an integer instead of a float, if all analog sensors were disabled the first temperature sensor didn't show the tenths or anything after the decimal but 0
  • Moved equipment pin setup to top of startup so dosing pumps and DC accessories don't run during startup
  • 1st Gen I2C power bar - If connected to controller outlets are now turned off immediately after a restart until controller finishes starting, about 2-3 seconds, then they resume their proper mode
  • Fixed LED sliders on light mode pages from locking up
  • Fixed customize labels screen menu - if too many equipment types were disabled the list was messed up and could only access some categories
  • Added non-contact sensor to sensor type selection for ATO
  • Added sensor images under the sensor type for ATO for better clarity
  • Added non-contact sensor image for home page custom sensor boxes
  • Disabled ATO emails if ATO is in TEST mode
If anyone comes across any issues please let me know.
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#2
If you already downloaded this download again in 20 minutes as I missed something.
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#3
hej Rob did u adres the dosing pumps for the older boards where the dosing is on rj45 ? i now have only 4 and none are working
thank for all the work u put in also does the old powerbar work with this version ? i mean the one that connects with vga cable
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#4
I can confirm that with gen2 hardware (oldschool hardware) I have 4 out of 8 pumps running on the main board with the rj45.
Never had the other 4 hooked up or tested.

My Powerbars work, But I’m running a full DIY controller.
Mine are hardwired without I2C connection or something, So guessing its the same as your set-up
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#5
Hi kooibosmania, in v5.X pump 1-4 should work, pump 5-8 will come a little later. Is this your first update to v5? Is everything else working? I assume the pumps stopped as soon as you updated? What Rev letter do you see on the controller board? The VGA power bars will still work, nothing extra to do.
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#6
hi Rob thanks for ur reply my rev number is D

i reverted back to 4.2 as i need 7 dosing pumps. i hope u can resolve it.

i had dosing hooked up but they do not apear in the software
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#7
Hello Rob,

my controller lost at once a day the date and time and set it to 6 june 2009 23:49 is it a software problem? In the logfile is no reset shown!  K05106
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#8
(04-24-2019, 06:09 AM)kooibosmania Wrote: hi Rob thanks for ur reply my rev number is D

i reverted back to 4.2 as i need 7 dosing pumps. i hope u can resolve it.

i had dosing hooked up but they do not apear in the software

Yeah I will try and get that sorted out soon. I want to make sure everything is working ok before I make extra equipment available.

(04-24-2019, 02:50 PM)roland33 Wrote: Hello Rob,

my controller lost at once a day the date and time and set it to 6 june 2009 23:49 is it a software problem? In the logfile is no reset shown!  K05106

Hi Roland, sounds like an I2C problem, do you have anything connected to the SCL/SDA pins? Once the clock goes bad anything written to a log will go in a file back dated.
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#9
I have an Atlas tentakel shield with Ph and orb probe
But it seems, that this doesnt work correcht, because the calibration needs a verry long time to fix ist.
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#10
That'll be why the I2C freezes, I believe you have Gen2 so you will need an I2C buffer. You can also try shortening the wires from the shield to controller on SCL and SDA pins. Right now the signal is on the edge.

You're the 3rd person to mention calibration for pH takes a long time but it's ok. This actually makes me happy because it appears my pH circuit is more stable than Atlas. When I made the auto-cal mode I used my circuit, in order to pass the calibration point the reading needs to stay within +/- .004 for 60 seconds, otherwise the timer will restart so it is a high standard. As an example if it read 7.012 and 60 seconds or less it was 7.017 it won't pass. When my circuit picks a number it stays within this range pretty easy and can pass the test without issue. You likely have to wait 10 minutes as that's when the step completely times out. I will have to put a note saying it will exit after 10 minutes as it can feel like it will never end.
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#11
I have the same issue with date and clock .
Coming back home at 7pm, display had 23.30!
So, I have unplugged my ec and ph probes. Just after that I have made a reset with the buttom of internet shield. And display as restarted with right date and clock!....
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#12
It's a real mystery to me why people seem to have more problems with I2C after updating to v5. I know you and others were on the limit before but v5 seems to push it over is odd. I might have to send you a buffer as that will solve the problem. If it's possible to shorten the wires on SCL/SDA pins that could solve it.
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#13
Hello Rob,
my wires about 30cm long and I use a level shifter exactly the same as in your discrition "Connecting Atlas
Scientific Stamps to the Controller" with a tentacle shield (page 16)
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#14
Hi Roland, a level shifter is different than a buffer, the shifter only changes voltages where a I2C buffer boosts the I2C signal. Something like this.

https://www.robo-tank.ca/en/Accessories/...86c67.html

If you can cut the cable to 15cm that might keep it going and you wouldn't need a buffer.
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#15
did the update but temp 1 is jumping around 25.3, 25.8, 25.9, 26.5, 26.3 etc..
and it is pretty random, while in 5.12 and 4.2 it was only 25.9 or 26.1 which it was jumping.

the inkbird ITC308 is in control of my heating and cooling and keeps is steady between 25.9 and 26.3
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#16
That almost sounds sensor related, did you try a different sensor or try this one on a different port to see if the problem moves?
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#17
It looks liked it has stabilized during the night since it now only shows 26.1
No more jumping or anything, I’ll check it again this afternoon during a different light mode to see if it starts jumping around again
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#18
When the DS18B20's go bad they can start jumping around, also check the wires where they go in the green screw terminal connector, a few weeks ago I was getting some crazy readings randomly and it turned out it was hanging by a thread on one of the wires. Look good until I pulled it. I think you might already have but adding a ground in the aquarium water can solve noise they can pickup as well.
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#19
Think it has stabilized, it now jumps from 25.9 to 26.1 and back.
So it is the same as 4.2 and 5.12 now.

I don’t have a groundingpole or something, everything is connected to GFCI outlets as far as it is possible/needed
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#20
I've checked with mine and I can get 25.9, 26.0, 26.1 and back so it's likely sensor or noise in aquarium. You could add a ground or remove the sensor from the water to see if that improves it to verify.
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