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Robo-Tank v4.0 is Ready
Hello, it's update time. Sorry it's been a while, was a busy summer and now it's gone... I'm hoping to focus on the controller over the next few months and see what I can accomplish. I know there's still quite a few requests not fulfilled yet, don't worry I'm not done and will get to them. :)

This update is bigger than it might appear, I've changed the structure and how the controller operates and communicates with the display and fixed a bunch of other small issues. Previously the RTC (real time clock) was on the display, it managed all the schedules and sent signals to the controller. Because of that the system relied on the display to fully function. I've moved the RTC to the controller and everything is done on it now. This update does require you to move the RTC from display board to the controller, in the update I included some instructions and an image showing what to look for. Sorry for the extra trouble but it had to be done.

With this change the controller will run and startup without the display. The controller only restarts when the time is changed. Instead of using 3 ports for communicating everything is done on one port eliminating any chance of crosstalk. This will definitely improve reliability as everything is done on a single processor. It's also good for the future, now a full function app will be easier to implement. 

Because of the change I had to move and redo a lot of existing code as everything ties in together, during this I found and was informed of some issues/bugs and got them solved. The biggest issue I found was with eeprom locations for the dosing pumps so if you experienced any issues that will be solved. There was also a couple web related issues, some visual errors in UI and LED low/high mode had an issue.

That's the major part of the update but I didn't want to put it out without some new additions you can actually see, so there's three new features.

The first is simple, the equipment log now logs if the heaters were turned on/off via temperature.

2nd is full calibration for Atlas Scientific circuits. As you might know 3 of the 4 circuits have temperature compensation built in, the controller sends the water temperature every two minutes to the circuits using the main water temp sensor. When you calibrate its useful to use a temperature sensor in the solution for better accuracy so once you view the calibration screen the temperature is sent to the circuit using "temperature 4" port on the controller every 20 seconds. I did that so you wouldn't need to pull out or unplug the sensor from your aquarium. I probably should have put an option to select the temp port to use but today its temp 4. 
  • pH circuit 1 and 2 - 1, 2 or 3 point calibration
  • ORP circuit - 1 point calibration
  • Dissolved Oxygen - 1 or 2 point calibration
  • Conductivity - one time dry calibration and 2 point
Here's the main setting screen for the Atlas Scientific circuits. You already have this screen but now the calibration buttons work and there's a calibration settings button.

[Image: hardware_atlas_settings.jpg]

This is the calibration settings screen where you can set the buffer solution values you use for calibrating. If I'm missing any let me know.

[Image: hardware_atlas_cal_settings.jpg]

When you select a circuit for calibrating you get a screen like this to select the calibration method. Here you can also clear the current calibration data which is useful if you mess around and want to do a proper calibration from scratch. It's recommended to do that before a calibration if your probe wasn't previously calibrated. 

[Image: hardware_atlas_cal_type_ph.jpg]

This is the screen you get during calibration, its basically the same for all circuits except color and some instructions are slightly different.

[Image: hardware_atlas_cal_ph.jpg]

You also get a prompt before anything that will affect the settings on the circuit. Because all calibration values are stored on the circuit this can't be undone. 

[Image: hardware_atlas_cal_warning.jpg]

And finally the 3rd new feature is for magnetic stirrers. These are used for the dosing pump reservoirs, they're good if you mix ingredients and for keeping the solution fresh.

Technically there's no limit on how many can be connected but you can control up to 8 individually, one for each dosing pump. They connect to LED channel 8-16, currently these channels can be used for lights or stirrers. I'll be adding other equipment control for these pins over time since most people don't use 16 channels for LED's.

When the stirrer is enabled the slider on the light pages will be replaced with text saying "stirrer enabled". The stirrer will automatically start when the dosing schedule comes along or you do a manual dose, it'll run for 30 seconds, there will be a 3 second pause and the dosing pump will startup. 

The only setting is to enable/disable the stirrer on the dosing pump settings page. If you do a manual dose on this screen or the dosing pump screen it'll tell you the stirrer is running and when the pump runs. The home screen also tells you the stirrer is running above the dosing pumps.

[Image: hardware_dosing.jpg]

And now for the sales pitch. :)

I designed a high quality magnetic stirrer that has two modes and can be used with or without the controller. If its connected to the controller it runs as described above and in manual mode you can use it for water tests or whatever. It can be powered using a standard 9-32v DC adapter or 9v battery. If a battery is installed you can't connect an external power source. It has a bright 3528 LED and holders for API test vile and others. If you need a custom size holder I can make one.

[Image: stirrer_6-Optimized.JPG]

You can find it in the store here.

And here's a video showing how it works.
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Wow, nice job man :) Robo-tank get better and better with every update :)
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Thanks Niksu, slowly getting there. :) I'm happy with this update, it'll make a big difference.
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wow this is a nice update love that stir bar just in time for my birthday tomorrow :) guess I got to buy some atlas stamps now just got to get them on the board
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Thanks Dale and happy birthday! Yup now you need some circuits, spend more money and keep the world going around. :)
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So what is the recommended way to use multiple Atlas scientific chips. Rob have you mad a final board for them yet? Last time I was here talking about this is when the guys from White Box Labs where talking about there tentacle boards. What has the community used??
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I don't have a carrier board for them, you have to get it from Atlas Scientific or White Box Labs. I typically recommend the isolated single carrier board as its easiest to work with but all will work. Whatever you get needs to be the isolated style though otherwise they will interfere with each other. I attached a file showing how they connect to the controller, you'll notice the largest board requires a logic converter as its only 5v compatible.

Attached Files
.pdf   Connecting_Atlas_Scientific_Circuits_V2_RevB.pdf (Size: 698.49 KB / Downloads: 47)
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Hi rob, I'm trying the new version, I've heard that every hour the buzzer sounds... Is it normal? I've also noted that in the Audio Alerts if I set the temperature in Celsius the High and Low alarm value still remain in fahrenheit... Also in the Heaters settings... I have to adjust the temperature to the Celsius scale?
thank you very much!
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Hi Simone, you likely hear the buzzer because of some settings in audio alerts. All the default settings are in fahrenheit, if you switch to celsius they'll be out of range and cause buzzer to squeal, you do have to adjust them for the sensors you're using if you use celsius. Same with the heaters, one day I might have them convert when its changed but haven't yet as most set and forget how the temps are viewed.
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(10-23-2017, 08:16 PM)Rob F Wrote: Hallo Simone, du hörst wahrscheinlich den Summer wegen einiger Einstellungen in Audioalarmen. Alle Standardeinstellungen sind in Fahrenheit. Wenn Sie auf Celsius umschalten, werden sie außerhalb des zulässigen Bereichs liegen und den Summer zum Quietschen bringen. Sie müssen sie für die Sensoren einstellen, die Sie verwenden, wenn Sie Celsius verwenden. Das gleiche mit den Heizungen, eines Tages könnte ich sie konvertieren lassen, wenn sie sich geändert haben, aber noch nicht so wie die meisten eingestellt haben und vergessen, wie die Temperaturen angezeigt werden.

Hallo an Alle Robo Tank Freunde 

Hat jemanden bemerkt das bei Software 4.0 der TDS wert auf dem Display falsch angezeigt wird ? Auf der Robo Tank Controller Webseite stimmt der wert aber
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my tentacle shield should be here by Tuesday I bought the 4 chip version just don't know what 4 to go on it. I have a couple of ph stamps and a EC stamp DO cost way to much money when I know I have 100% 02 in my tank water falls down 2 over fills that are 1.5 inch for a 10 foot drop to my basement in to a double wet dry box that aerates it even more then it dumps out a 1.5 inch pipe and falls 2 more feet in to a 150G stock tank I think I have some air in my water :) but I got the 4 stamp version incase I put this on my reef tank
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Hi Adrian and Dale, oh wow I can't believe I didn't see these messages until now, embarrassed to say the least... K0587 I'm sorry, I didn't get an email from forum and sometimes I don't load the site for days as nothing to load it for. 

Adrian I don't have an EC circuit so can't physically see, what are you getting on the display? Is it a single value from that circuit or all 4? I'll scan through the code and see if I can find something.

Good luck with the new shield Dale. K0507
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(10-30-2017, 02:25 PM)Rob F Wrote: Hallo Adrian und Dale, oh wow Ich kann nicht glauben, dass ich diese Nachrichten bis jetzt nicht gesehen habe, peinlich berührt, um es gelinde auszudrücken ...  K0587 Es tut mir leid, ich habe keine E-Mail vom Forum bekommen und manchmal ziehe ich Laden Sie die Website für Tage nicht als nichts zum Laden. 

Adrian Ich habe keine EC-Schaltung, kann also nicht physisch sehen, was bekommst du auf dem Display? Ist es ein einzelner Wert aus dieser Schaltung oder alle 4? Ich werde den Code durchsuchen und sehen, ob ich etwas finden kann.

Viel Glück mit dem neuen Schild Dale. K0507
Also auf der Webseite steht zum Beispiel  TDS 234 und auf dem Robo Tank Display steht nur 2
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Great thanks! Is it just the TDS? I'll look at it this evening.
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You can give it a try now Adrian, I found an error for TDS. Download v4.0 again, you only need to upload to the display.
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(10-30-2017, 07:15 PM)Rob F Wrote: Du kannst es jetzt versuchen Adrian, ich habe einen Fehler für TDS gefunden. Laden Sie v4.0 erneut herunter, Sie müssen es nur auf die Anzeige hochladen.

Fehler ist behoben ?
Du bist einfach Klasse
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Yeah it should be working, if you see anything else let me know.
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(11-05-2017, 12:08 AM)Rob F Wrote: Ja, es sollte funktionieren, wenn du etwas anderes siehst, lass es mich wissen.

Jetzt ist es ok , danke für die schnelle Hilfe
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(11-05-2017, 02:05 AM)Addi Wrote:
(11-05-2017, 12:08 AM)Rob F Wrote: Ja, es sollte funktionieren, wenn du etwas anderes siehst, lass es mich wissen.

Jetzt ist es ok , danke für die schnelle Hilfe

Great, glad to hear. :)
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Hi Rob, on the last version Have you changed something about the network connection? with the 3.60 I've tryed quickly and it worked... On the last version if I go in network settings, click on internet disable it shows me Connecting Please wait... but it doesn't do anything... I'm doing something wrong?
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