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Expansion Hub PCB
#1
Hi all, well I've been really working hard on the new board for the expansion hub and this is what I've come up with.  K05164

Top View
[Image: Ethernet_Board_Top_3D.jpg]

Bottom View
[Image: Ethernet_Board_Bottom_3D.jpg]

It measure 5.91" x 3.12" in size. The Arduino Due plugs in the bottom of the board and the w5100 Ethernet shield plugs in on top sandwiching this board between. Stack-able headers will be soldered to the Due footprint allowing them both to plug in.

The board contains 3 DC step-down buck converters which are around 90% efficient and each have a 3amp output. They have built in over current protection, thermal shutdown function, under voltage lockout function and over voltage protection, because no where near 3amps is used they run cold and stay efficient. They operate at 3.3v, 5v and 6v. The board has 2 - 3amp schottky diodes for reverse polarity protection and is powered using 12v DC. There's a 256k eeprom for the Due, logic level converters so 5v sensors/equipment is compatible, PWM-Analog converters, and switching transistors for pumps.

Features

The board contains 14 USB ports for sensors and equipment, the internet will plug directly into the w5100 shield which is positioned to hang off the right side. At the back of the board there's a 2.1mm jack for 12v DC to power the board and another USB-A jack for connecting this board to the main power bar. This will connect using a standard off the shelf USB cable and a 12v DC adapter. Amps on the adapter depends on what and how much equipment you run, anywhere between 1-5 amps should be good.

All the internet features, power head ramps and things described on this page will run on the Due, this is good because the processor won't be trying to fade lights and ramp power heads at the same time. It also gives lots of speed and space for the internet control.

Each USB port on the board is marked P1, P2, etc... that's the port number, the row of 3 pin jumpers above the ports are also marked with a port number so you know what's what. Those jumpers are used for different sensors/equipment which are clearly marked so there isn't confusion. The square block in the middle left side is jumpers for the digital power heads / circulation pumps. Four of the ports can output a signal of 0-5v PWM, 0-10v PWM, 0-5v Analog and 0-10v Analog and you can run 12v or 6v DC to each port. This will allow any digital power head to work. I added the optional 6v or 12v so they can be used with smaller water pumps etc. if you want to lower the voltage. 

Port 1, port 2, port 8 and port 9 are for the digital powerheads, fans or pumps.

Port 3 Is for the the water parameter sensors. It uses a 3pin jumper which allows you to connect Atlas-Scientific circuits or the cheaper generic PH circuit. If you use this port for the generic PH stamp you can use Port 4 for the other Atlas-Scientific circuits available. 

Port 4 is for the TSL2561 Lux sensor breakout board. You can also use this for the Atlas-Scientific circuits as mentioned above and is hot swapable, meaning you can have your Atlas-Scientific circuits plugged in, unplug it and plug in the Lux sensor get your reading and plug the circuits back in without powering down the system or changing jumpers. 

Port 5, Port 6 and Port 7 are for the Automatic Top Off system. I based my design off the famous and highly rated Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO system but in the end I think this will be better.  Wink Port 5 is for the ATO water pump, there's a jumper allowing you to use 6v or 12v DC to power your pump. Port 6 is for an optical water sensor, these are much more precise and reliable than your standard float switch. Port 7 is used for a backup float switch for worse case scenario. To give you even a better nights sleep you can add a mix of 5 more float switches, 4 more optical sensors or 2 water rope sensors and use them in the ATO system if you so desire. In fact any sensors can be tied into the ATO.

Port 10 and Port 11 have a 3pin jumper, in one position they can run a regular float switch, a moisture sensor board, a water rope sensor or any other 5v sensor and in the 2nd position an optical water sensor.

Port 12 and Port 13 both use 2 - 3pin jumpers, they can run the same sensors as Port 10 and Port 11 however the extra jumper allows 12v to go through the rope sensor allowing it to operate at a longer distance. I'm experimenting with the rope sensor and think I can come up with something, just not sure if I can produce them reasonably priced. You can also leave the 12v for the float switches on these ports, this would be good if you wanted them 50+ feet away from the tank. So basically Port 10, 11, 12 and 13 are the same expect these two ports can have sensors located further away from the aquarium.

Port 14 can be used for a float switch, any 3.3v sensor and a short water rope sensor.

I'm getting an infrared flame sensor to see if it works well, as an example that could be added to any of those 5 sensor ports.

That's basically it. How does all this sound? Will this cover 95%+ of the aquariums out there?
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#2
wow where is mine
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#3
lol, its coming... I also forgot to mention for those of you who have already ordered Robo-Tank since the beginning or anyone thinking of ordering it I will ship this board to you for free with a discount once its ready. That offer is good for anyone but site moderators.  K05163  So don't be worried about ordering today and having to pay another shipping cost later.
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#4
Lol looks good when will you ship it out to the board house
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#5
Hopefully next week sometime, I still need to think more and stare at it to make sure I don't want to change anything but I think it will do all.
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#6
Great!! I want a one, as your new led signal converter pcb!...?
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#7
Thanks, they should both be ready at the same time.
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#8
can some of the last ports be re purposed like maybe 12,13,14 be great for hood fans or some thing else but if you really need all the to tell you your tank is leaking than you shouldn't have the damn thing I mean really I lost count on how man alarms you can have. If you are scared of leaks then get smoke detector sirens wire them to the 12v if that doesn't wake you up then nothing will
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#9
You'll be able to use the ports marked sensors for almost anything. Lots of the water sensors can be used to turns pumps on ect... I can't say exactly what will can do what yet until I do the code, lots has to do with it. I'm confident it will turn out good in the end.
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#10
Hi

Is it possible to use shield wifi cc3000 rather than shield w5100 ?


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#11
not at this time it isn't but as a future addon it is some thing that might be added if you would go to the Comments & Suggestions and post it there

I'm confident it will turn out good in the end

I am sure it will also. Just a lot to do
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#12
Hi Majid, yeah maybe someday, I wanted it hard wired to start for reliability reasons. Gotta get there first. Smile
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#13
very good K05164 K05164
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#14
(11-14-2015, 05:29 PM)robsworld78 Wrote: Hi all, well I've been really working hard on the new board for the expansion hub and this is what I've come up with.  K05164

Top View
[Image: Ethernet_Board_Top_3D.jpg]

Bottom View
[Image: Ethernet_Board_Bottom_3D.jpg]

It measure 5.91" x 3.12" in size. The Arduino Due plugs in the bottom of the board and the w5100 Ethernet shield plugs in on top sandwiching this board between. Stack-able headers will be soldered to the Due footprint allowing them both to plug in.

The board contains 3 DC step-down buck converters which are around 90% efficient and each have a 3amp output. They have built in over current protection, thermal shutdown function, under voltage lockout function and over voltage protection, because no where near 3amps is used they run cold and stay efficient. They operate at 3.3v, 5v and 6v. The board has 2 - 3amp schottky diodes for reverse polarity protection and is powered using 12v DC. There's a 256k eeprom for the Due, logic level converters so 5v sensors/equipment is compatible, PWM-Analog converters, and switching transistors for pumps.

Features

The board contains 14 USB ports for sensors and equipment, the internet will plug directly into the w5100 shield which is positioned to hang off the right side. At the back of the board there's a 2.1mm jack for 12v DC to power the board and another USB-A jack for connecting this board to the main power bar. This will connect using a standard off the shelf USB cable and a 12v DC adapter. Amps on the adapter depends on what and how much equipment you run, anywhere between 1-5 amps should be good.

All the internet features, power head ramps and things described on this page will run on the Due, this is good because the processor won't be trying to fade lights and ramp power heads at the same time. It also gives lots of speed and space for the internet control.

Each USB port on the board is marked P1, P2, etc... that's the port number, the row of 3 pin jumpers above the ports are also marked with a port number so you know what's what. Those jumpers are used for different sensors/equipment which are clearly marked so there isn't confusion. The square block in the middle left side is jumpers for the digital power heads / circulation pumps. Four of the ports can output a signal of 0-5v PWM, 0-10v PWM, 0-5v Analog and 0-10v Analog and you can run 12v or 6v DC to each port. This will allow any digital power head to work. I added the optional 6v or 12v so they can be used with smaller water pumps etc. if you want to lower the voltage. 

Port 1, port 2, port 8 and port 9 are for the digital powerheads, fans or pumps.

Port 3 Is for the the water parameter sensors. It uses a 3pin jumper which allows you to connect Atlas-Scientific circuits or the cheaper generic PH circuit. If you use this port for the generic PH stamp you can use Port 4 for the other Atlas-Scientific circuits available. 

Port 4 is for the TSL2561 Lux sensor breakout board. You can also use this for the Atlas-Scientific circuits as mentioned above and is hot swapable, meaning you can have your Atlas-Scientific circuits plugged in, unplug it and plug in the Lux sensor get your reading and plug the circuits back in without powering down the system or changing jumpers. 

Port 5, Port 6 and Port 7 are for the Automatic Top Off system. I based my design off the famous and highly rated Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO system but in the end I think this will be better.  Wink Port 5 is for the ATO water pump, there's a jumper allowing you to use 6v or 12v DC to power your pump. Port 6 is for an optical water sensor, these are much more precise and reliable than your standard float switch. Port 7 is used for a backup float switch for worse case scenario. To give you even a better nights sleep you can add a mix of 5 more float switches, 4 more optical sensors or 2 water rope sensors and use them in the ATO system if you so desire. In fact any sensors can be tied into the ATO.

Port 10 and Port 11 have a 3pin jumper, in one position they can run a regular float switch, a moisture sensor board, a water rope sensor or any other 5v sensor and in the 2nd position an optical water sensor.

Port 12 and Port 13 both use 2 - 3pin jumpers, they can run the same sensors as Port 10 and Port 11 however the extra jumper allows 12v to go through the rope sensor allowing it to operate at a longer distance. I'm experimenting with the rope sensor and think I can come up with something, just not sure if I can produce them reasonably priced. You can also leave the 12v for the float switches on these ports, this would be good if you wanted them 50+ feet away from the tank. So basically Port 10, 11, 12 and 13 are the same expect these two ports can have sensors located further away from the aquarium.

Port 14 can be used for a float switch, any 3.3v sensor and a short water rope sensor.

I'm getting an infrared flame sensor to see if it works well, as an example that could be added to any of those 5 sensor ports.

That's basically it. How does all this sound? Will this cover 95%+ of the aquariums out there?

wow looks great I do won't it and the LED board any thoughts on price yet?
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#15
Thanks, I posted the LED board in the store and haven't come up with a price yet for this one. Anyone who already has the kit will get a better deal though. I hope to have them in a week to 10 days.
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#16
So this requires a second DUE? Looks very cool. Can't wait for my kit to arrive and get started.
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#17
Yeah this runs on its own Due, this allows more space for future growth and lots of speed. Thanks for your support, I hope to get it out shortly.
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