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Discus setup... hope will work !
#1
Hi, I have just received my Robo-Tank controller... that mean I am very new to this

this project will be a challenge for me. I am good when it's comes to invent things but on the electrical-mechanical side and really bad on the software/programming side so please have patience with me.

My target: Tank to be able to do everything by himself.

hardware available:
 - Robo-tank controller deluxe version - Rasperry Pi 4 - 8Gb
 - Ph probe
 - optical level sensor
 - mechanical level switch 
 - temperature probe 
 - tank main light, Juwel Helia lux LED lights - 2 channel
 - sump light - generic - 2 channel 
 - TMC reef pump - return pump
 - Wave maker
 - Eheim and Sera automatic feeder
 - CO2 installation,  
 - UV 
 - titanium heater x 2 

 I will need a lot of help with this so Please HELP!!!

What I will like to add:
 - Automatic water change + ATO
 - EC probe (conductivity probe)
 - Flow meter 

I will try to keep this thread as a journal for future generation inspiration  K0505
[-] The following 1 user Likes Deliabiba's post:
  • Rob F
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#2
Hi Deliabiba, glad it arrived, I guess the best way is to start slowing getting different systems online which will help give a better understanding of how it works.

If you haven't installed reef-pi yet this link explains how.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1t9ma...5qkcuznso3

Maybe start with the temperature and pH as those aren't too difficult to get running, if you need specifics let me know. This page goes over the pH.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1uFP4...=h.37m2jsg

I'm not sure about your light, I did a quick search and didn't see anything about external controller, looks like theirs is wifi so it might not be compatible, if you have a link, maybe I'm looking at the wrong one.

EC and flow meter aren't supported by reef-pi at this time but I'm working on an app that will support them so those might have to wait a little bit.

Here's a link showing how to wire the Eheim feeder, sorry I'm unsure about the Sera, hopefully it works like the Eheim and you can find connection points with a volt meter.

https://www.robo-tank.ca/Connect_Eheim_Auto_Feeder
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#3
the parcel arrived in very good condition and on top of that I haven't been ask to pay duty tax on the import... :)

the light is a Juwel Helialux and the controller is Juwel HeliaLux Day+Night Control
the power supply has 3 pins Vcc+ for the white, Vcc+ for the blue and the GND, without the controller the light is on 100% or off
I can open the controller and make some pictures if its helps
this is the manual for the control
https://www.aquaristikshop.com/download/...438665.pdf

the feeder is a JBl one not Sera ... sorry
I have seen on the forum someone installing a JBL auto feeder - I will have another look

my return pump is a TMC reef pump 4000 -

on Sunday I will have more time and then I will install the rasperry and start the tests
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#4
Wonderful, it really comes down to who's working.

Do you know for sure 2 wires are VCC and one ground and not 2 grounds 1 VCC? The DC ports are controlling the GND pin so both channels would dim together if connected to them. RGB strip lights are usually VCC + 3 grounds so each ground can be connected to it's own DC port.

Ah yeah I forgot about that feeder, glad you saw it.

Is the return pump just 24v, 2 wires, or have a signal? You might only be able to turn it on/off plugged into the power bar.

Let me know how things go.
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#5
(07-23-2021, 04:54 PM)Rob F Wrote: Wonderful, it really comes down to who's working.

Do you know for sure 2 wires are VCC and one ground and not 2 grounds 1 VCC? The DC ports are controlling the GND pin so both channels would dim together if connected to them. RGB strip lights are usually VCC + 3 grounds so each ground can be connected to it's own DC port.

Ah yeah I forgot about that feeder, glad you saw it.

Is the return pump just 24v, 2 wires, or have a signal? You might only be able to turn it on/off plugged into the power bar.

Let me know how things go.
the pump has 3 wires

I have opened the controller and is how you said. 

I will try to add some pictures
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#6
Sounds good, maybe we should stick with one first, you pick, not sure what controller you are referring to, lights or pump?
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#7
lights controller


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#8
Looks like common +12v and individual grounds so it should be easy to connect.

3 amps is getting up there for the controller but I think it will be ok, maybe after running a few hours touch the mosfets to see if they get hot. You'll see a row of 7 like your last image.

You will need to use the external power supply as controller is only 12v, here's a drawing someone made so I could connect the dots, you can see how the ground from 20v power supply goes to a common ground on controller (use those ground pins above the DC ports). If you're unsure post a pic of how you think it should go.

The blue and grey wires in your controller would go to a separate Ground pin on a DC port, best to use 4-7 as they don't have the backup float port.

[Image: diagram.png]
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#9
I understand, but that will not give me the possibility to dim the LED just to turn it on/off.
the power supply is 20V and 3A - the LED is 20V 2.7A = 54W
is there any module that I can buy/diy to connect to the power supply and use the ch1 - ch8 to control the lights?

on the DC ports 1-3 what is the maximum power (amps) that I can get?
the power supply that I will use is 12V, 10A

on the rasperry pi - do I need a cooler? if yes wich one will be best due to the space between the MB(robo-tank boiard) and R.Pi(rasperry pi board)
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#10
They will dim with the DC ports, it's basically the same as it's controller. In reef-pi add the DC port as a Jack for light and you're set.

All the DC ports are good for around 3 amps but that's also the max for all them together. More can flow but that's getting to the traces limits.

You don't need a fan for the Pi as they withstand high temps but it definitely helps and probably good for Pi long term. You can see the 4 holes in the lid, it's for a fan like this. You'll also see a 2 pin plug behind the DC input that you can plug the fan into.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MS1...54026e59cf
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#11
The JBL feeder would be me, but I haven’t got it connected yet.
Just didn’t have the time..

But nice that you opened up the helialux controller, looks like those bastards over at juwel just build one controller and released a dressed down version prior to releasing the “spectrum” version
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#12
yes - but the spectrum version came 2-3 years after the white and blue version

can I make the controller to control more than channels ?
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#13
Well.. with something like a reef-PI you don’t want to fiddle with the juwel controller.
Just grab some db139 (if I recall correctly) in a to220 housing, slam on a heatsink and use the 5v PWM from the reef-pi to control the lights

Looks like some components are “missing” to upgrade it to the spectrum, but that is only the hardware side..
[-] The following 1 user Likes fietsenrex's post:
  • Rob F
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#14
I have done a Logic scheme for the water change.
any help is good


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#15
You should be able to use macros, if you use timers the macros can have multiple steps however do not that you need to put the steps in reverse order and click the reverse checkbox in macro, a little quark within reef-pi. Another thing to note if you use sensors to trigger macros you can only have one step in the macro.

I think if you create one macro to turn things off and startup the pump then use two other macros with the sensors to stop the process. Here's a link showing how to use ATO sensor to do a water change.

https://www.robo-tank.ca/forum/Thread-Se...73#pid5673
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#16
little update:

temp1, temp2, temp3, pH

do I need the resistor?


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#17
Looks good, you don't need the resistor, it's on the board.
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Current time: 10-15-2021, 08:15 PM