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Alternative autofeeder wiring
#21
Good to hear, I'm still using my original screen too, definitely impressed with them.

I agree, other feeders likely work on the same principle, if one side of the manual feed switch is connected to ground it'll be the same, just need to connect the drain pin from NPN to other side of feed switch and power up.
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#22
Think I can work with this…
   
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#23
Nice, that looks easier to work with than the Ehiem.

Maybe the pins next to J3 and J4 is the power from the batteries, if so you can power up feeder there and check the left and right side of S4 to see if it's a ground or +3v or whatever. If one side is ground you can connect the data wire to other side of switch but if it's positive voltage you'll need to change the NPN to PNP like this.

[Image: P-Channel-Same-Voltage-with-Pull-Up.png]
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#24
Great news :D
It still runs at 2.7v.
And the manual feed button goes to ground, so if I recall correctly I can wire it the same as the Eheim feeder
Please do note I’m still running the arduino based controller NOT the reefpi.
   
The issue I’m running into now is that I have to set the amount of food before each manual dose, otherwise it won’t feed.
The food amount is adjustable between 1 and 8 with 8 being the largest amount.
On the plus-side, if I press both buttons at the same time it wil dose the smallest amount possible
And while writing this I found out that the button used for the adjustment of the amount, once you stop adjusting the amount it wil feed.
So if the smallest dose is not enough you just need 2 or more feed pulses from the controller to set a higher amount of food
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#25
Hmm, so that doesn't do a full rotation like the Eheim? Does the 2nd switch you press also go to ground? If so you could connect the signal wire from controller to both switches that are waiting for the ground path. That's what the controller is doing with a NPN, turning on/off a common ground. If that works you could create 2 schedules back to back for feeding.
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#26
Well it’s a bit different from the Eheim.
The JBL doesn’t have a rotating drum, it uses a wormwheel to transport the food out of the container.
Adjusting the amount of food results in a different run time of the motor turning the wormwheel.
With amount 1 being the shortest runtime and 8 the longest.

The “manual” feed button doesn’t do anything, or at least it’s not clearly stated in the manual.
Using the “amount” button to pulse it to the desired amount will always result in a food dosing.

Shorting the buttons to ground works to activate them, so I only need the “amount” button.
I just need something to pulse it to the desired setting.
Preferable without modifying the code.
Using a 555 timer would be best I think, just have to figure out how to get it somewhere around 0.5Hz.
Or atleast a 555 timer is the only thing I know and somewhat understand.

But then it isn’t as plug& play as I would like.
Shorting the button to ground for an extended amount of time doesn’t work, it needs to be pulsed
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#27
Never mind the additional pulses.
Just tested it out and the lowest setting is enough for me.
The highest setting is a HUGE amount of food, I wouldn’t know who would need such amounts of fish food…
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#28
Right on, glad you got it working.

So you have signal wire going to S5 switch? According to picture is it connected to left or right side of switch?

I think the code holds the pin HIGH for 1 second, is that how you have it working?

In the bottom right hand corner, J3 + and J4 -, are those going to the battery? Could a person solder wires to those points to power it up?

I was going to make a diagram on one of your pictures, that's why I'm asking.
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#29
No I tested it on my workbench with a powersupply.
J3 and J4 are the battery terminals.
Connecting the lower part of S4 to ground will activate the “amount” button.
It only needs a couple of milliseconds to register it as a click.

With ease you can solder pretty hefty wires to them and still be able to move them around.
Something like AWG20 or 1.0mm2 should fit easely.

Taking it apart is easy, you snap off the screen and remove 1 screw from the battery compartment and it’s open and you can do whatever you want.

That said, having a setting option in the controller to give this type of feeder anywhere between 1 and 8 pulses would be better and more reliable than the Eheim and juwel feeders which are using sliders for controlling the amount of food.
Also nice thing about this feeder is that you can 3D print the wormwheel for even smaller amounts of food :D
Nice for nano tanks and stuff like that.
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#30
Thanks for the info, makes sense.

As you may have seen I'm working on new software so I'll think about the 1-8 pulses, shouldn't be too hard to do. Maybe that'll get you to upgrade lol, just kidding, if it ain't broke don't fix it is my moto.
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