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ATO Circuit and outlet
#1
Dear Rob,

I have completed the cabling of my ATO system and I would like to test it now.

I haven't ordered the pump because I was projecting to allocate an outlet and connect a solenoid valve on it.

I have tried to assign an outlet but didn't figure out how to make it. 

Could you please let me know how I could test the ATO and if this option is available ?

Thx.
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#2
Hi Dagsterbox, unfortunately you can't do that just yet. The update I'm working hard on will allow you to do that. For now you'll have to use a pump. If you do use the ATO you'll have to make the following change in the expansion board sketch.

Find line 509 and 513 and change "HIGH" to "LOW" on line 509 and "LOW" to "HIGH" on line 513.
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#3
Thanks Rob.

Is there a way to test if the ato is working if I do not have the pump ?
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#4
Yes you can technically connect any 6v or 12v DC accessory to the ATO pump port. Make sure to set the voltage jumper on the board to the correct voltage. The port can handle up to 2amps of current, 3amps total for the board and other ports. If you need more power you can use an external power supply and connect directly to the accessory bypassing the board.
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#5
Dear Rob,

I have made some tests with my voltmeter and I have 6v on both positions (6v and 12v). I have tried to play with the sensor but I see no variation on the pump usb.

Is there something that I am doing wrong or may be the communication with the extension board is not working ?
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#6
Hi Dagsterbox, that's strange on the voltages, the 12v headers are feed directly from the power supply connected, is your power supply putting out 12v? The power on the 6v header is coming from the on board regulator so its working.

The sensor doesn't switch the positive on/off, it switches the ground. When you test the port you need to use the ground on the port, not a common ground. The communications isn't related to the ATO, that's all local.
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#7
Photo 
Yes, I have a 12V power supply with 5 amps (tested) and also tested with a 30 amps. I uploaded the sketch with the correction and also noted that the Due programming port is not working. I have made the update with the other one and it went fine. I doesn't matter where I put the jumper, I always have 6V. I have made the same testing on other headers with the same result.

About the ATO optical sensor, I tested the ground and it doesn't matter if the sensor is in or out of the water, I have no voltage fluctuation. I followed the expansion hub cabling instructions (1 ground red, 2 data yellow, 3 5v blue, 4 5v white).

Please let me know if there is a way to test if the expansion board is making the connection with the controller, if the ATO sensor is working properly and also if the expansion board is working too.

I attached a picture of the board.

May be I am missing something.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#8
I think I see the problem for the ATO, a float switch has to be plugged in for it to work, if you don't have one you can use a jumper between the 2 pins in the printout. Don't leave it like that though, if the optical sensor gets dirty and stops working the float will shut it down. Also as a side note, in the next version there's an icon under the time showing when the ATO is active so it'll be easy to see if its working properly.

The power issue is strange as there's only a diode between the voltage coming in and going to the headers. Here's the image with different places to check the voltage starting at 1.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#9
(05-28-2016, 07:41 AM)Rob F Wrote: I think I see the problem for the ATO, a float switch has to be plugged in for it to work, if you don't have one you can use a jumper between the 2 pins in the printout. Don't leave it like that though, if the optical sensor gets dirty and stops working the float will shut it down. Also as a side note, in the next version there's an icon under the time showing when the ATO is active so it'll be easy to see if its working properly.

The power issue is strange as there's only a diode between the voltage coming in and going to the headers. Here's the image with different places to check the voltage starting at 1.
Dear Rob,

I have made the testing:

1. 12v
2. no voltage
3. Where should I check ?
4. 6v
5. 6v
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#10
Make sure to scratch the surface a bit with your probe, I have the schematic open to make sure and if you have no voltage at number 2 or 3 its impossible to have voltage at 4 and 5. Number 2 is the top of the diode (power going in it) and number 3 is power coming out of it. The voltage coming out should be about .2v less then the reading from number 2 as the schottky diode has some voltage loss.
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#11
Alright.

For both I have about 2V.

I welded the floating switch on the usb connector. When the switch is on, I have 12 v, when it is off, there is no voltage.

I put the ato sensor in a grass of water with the floating switch Off but there is no voltage. I did the same with no water, same result.

May be the problem is coming from the sensor.
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#12
I think your voltmeter might be playing games with you. If 2 and 3 was only 2v you wouldn't have 6v or the 12v. It sounds like 12v is coming out the port so its working ok.

The float switch always needs to be on, this is the backup for the sensor. If the float switch is off the ATO won't come on no matter what the sensor reads. Keep the float on and the sensor should turn it on/off. Also make sure you have in "Check Water Level" setting set to 0 for testing it otherwise the sensor won't be read for an hour or whatever its set to.
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#13
By on, I mean exactly the same set up than the picture enclosed.

I have tried with 0 but there is no supply on the pump.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#14
Did you flip the float around, it looks upside down? You can remove the part of the float that moves up and down, take it off and put it the other way. Make sure the float is set how you had it before when you did have voltage on the port.
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#15
(05-29-2016, 12:50 AM)Rob F Wrote: Did you flip the float around, it looks upside down? You can remove the part of the float that moves up and down, take it off and put it the other way. Make sure the float is set how you had it before when you did have voltage on the port.

Dear Rob,
 
From my understanding, the float must be placed above the sensor with closed position. If the sensor fails to stop the pump, the float will do as a backup.

I attached some pictures of my set up for the testing. I my case, the sensor is not stopping the pump.


Attached Files Image(s)
           
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#16
That correct, if the float is a open circuit it stops the power going to the pump. The float is meant to mounted how you have it in your latest picture. On your bracket its upside down. You can use it that way but you need to remove that small stop at the top of the float, and turn the piece that moves around. Then the circuit will be closed when you have it mounted on your bracket.
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#17
(05-29-2016, 08:41 AM)Rob F Wrote: That correct, if the float is a open circuit it stops the power going to the pump. The float is meant to mounted how you have it in your latest picture. On your bracket its upside down. You can use it that way but you need to remove that small stop at the top of the float, and turn the piece that moves around. Then the circuit will be closed when you have it mounted on your bracket.

Alright,


So, my sensors is probably not working properly or not recognised.
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#18
I sent you a PM.
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#19
this is just a killer.. I wonder if he has tested the float switch for continuity easy test between the two wires then you know for sure it is working 100%
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