Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
A few questions before I click the buy button
#1
Hi, just about to finally purchase one of these but have a few questions.
The first, is there any form of leak sensor that you supply or recommend using to tie into the robo tank controller?
Are you able to control jecod return pumps / gyre pumps with the 0-10v outlets?
Also, I'm sure I read somewhere but can't seem to find it again that you could control a second energy bar at a different location (eg a RO station) as long as it was connected by usb?

Thanks Dave
Reply to top
#2
Hi Dave, I found this sensor that should work ok. There's also some cheap analog sensor boards that might work but probably be replaced if they actually get wet.

https://www.robo-tank.ca/en/Accessories/...45c67.html

https://www.amazon.com/Floor-Water-Senso...7234&psc=1

I haven't been able to get one of the jecod pumps but I'm pretty sure it can be controlled but it might need a couple components. If you took pictures and some voltages maybe we could figure it out. I would say the same thing applies for the gyre pumps but you'll have to open the controller so we can see what makes it tick. With all that said there isn't really a system to control them so I would need to add code to control them which I'm ok to do.

You can connect multiple power bars, how far away will it be? I'm estimating as is you could use about 14 meters between the 2 power bars.
Reply to top
#3
Hi Rob, thanks for the reply.

I think a couple of the second sensors you have listed would be perfect for under the tank cabinate. I do have a return pump that I would be happy to take some photos of and some voltages. I havnt brought the gyre pumps just yet but again would be happy to supply you info and test.

I was hoping to control a RO / saltwater mixing station (a couple of pumps, solenoids and float switches) in another room that is approximately a 20m cable run away. Would I be able to use something like this extender?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logilink-Over-C...th=1&psc=1
Reply to top
#4
Oh I almost forgot this sensor, I have some of these and they seem to be a nice option and works good on thick glass, maybe not for your setup but good option for ATO.

https://www.amazon.com/XKC-Y25-V-Waterpr...266&sr=8-2

I think we can probably figure out the jecod that you have, the controller looks very similar to the WP series wave makers they have which I have connected to the LED channels on the controller.

You should be able to run those things but you might need an external power supply where the pumps are. If the pumps are really large it should be ok directly off the controller. Float switches will be no problem.

As for the power bar it communicates with the controller using I2C bus, this has limits on cable length. The extender you linked wouldn't work, it needs to be for I2C. The controller has a buffer on board which is rated to 18m but I say 14m however multiple can be connected inline so you could extend past 20m. Just need a buffer every 10-14 meters. I do have these and physically they are about the same size as you linked however what I have uses USB cables instead of RJ45. I think for your setup you would need 2 of these, with a kit I can do $15 each in a 3D printed case.
Reply to top
#5
Hi Rob

Thanks that sound like a plan and a way forward. Just getting the order list up together.

One last question although I think I'm in the wrong place on the forum, Is there any form of Web platform that would allow me access the controller and make adjustments when I am not at home?
Reply to top
#6
Hi Dave, no problem, sorry I don't have a better answer for the long distance with DC pumps. Just noticed I said "If the pumps are really large it should be ok directly off the controller." I meant "if the pumps aren't really large". The main problem is line loss, by the time the +12v gets to the pump it might only be +9v under a load. In the end it's probably better to use an external power supply, connect the + from it to the + on DC pump and then GND of power supply to any GND on controller. Then run a wire from controller DC port to the GND on the pump.

At this time the web platform is very basic and mainly for email alerts and local weather forecast as these don't take much resources from the Arduino. There is a basic web page you can access remotely but it only shows current sensor values, shows current outlet status and allow you to manually turn them on/off and also a button to feed the fish. If you have an IP camera you can also add some login information to the html file and it'll show up on the page as well. Also the controller checks the IP address from your service provider every hour and if it changes you'll get an email with the new IP so you don't lose access if away. I attached an image showing what the web page looks like.

With that said I am working on moving the web features from the controller, instead they will be on a Pi and at that point I can work towards a full featured website so eventually the display would be optional. When this is ready all you need is any Pi and simply plug the USB from it into the USB programming port on controller and it'll work. Also on a side note if you run a computer 24 hours you could use it instead of a Pi.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Reply to top
#7
Just my 2 cents in this matter
Jecod/jebao pumps run on 24v and speed appears to be controlled by 5v PWM.
Atleast I’ve read somewhere that they use 5v PWM, So in theory you could use a lighting channel for speedcontrol.
The gyre pumps I’m not sure how they are controlled..
As for the long DC lines if you run any you could maybe use a booster with an extra powersupply just to bring it back to 12v.
Data doesn’t do well when using long cables and in my opinion you will need shielded cables just to make the best out of it
Reply to top
#8
I have a couple Jebao WP-40's and they work at 24v with 5v PWM signal. I have connected them to the LED channels and they work good, just need to put in a system to use them. I just tied in the signal wire and a common GND and ran it off the original power supply. One thing with mine is if the PWM signal was maybe below 2v the pump wouldn't run good so the code needs to jump from that point to off. That's why it's not good to run them on the LED channels right now. I'm guessing the other pumps are similar, the controller for the Jecod looks close to the WP series.

For the DC ports the signal is just a ground, no data flows through it. I think if the power supply is located at the pump a long GND would be ok. Data going through a wire is a mystery, using Serial it can travel over 100ft no problem, using I2C 6ft is pushing it without buffers, doesn't make sense. :)
Reply to top


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  New Proyect!! Some questions... jmcadsl 3 1,191 02-18-2018, 11:57 PM
Last Post: Rob F
  Questions about Robo Tank simonv92 18 2,824 10-04-2017, 08:53 PM
Last Post: Rob F
Question Questions about purchasing a Robo-Tank DIY Aquarium Controller Kit jeremyh 43 10,160 02-26-2017, 09:37 PM
Last Post: Rob F

Forum Jump:

Current time: 09-17-2019, 09:31 PM